You'll have some runoff which will be tinted with the color of the rust, but if that's a problem you can always buff it off with a scotchbrite pad later. They would be greatly appreciated. Hand shaping Wonderflex is possible, but the results will be a little lumpier than what can be done with a proper shaping buck. In pic 3 you can see how rough my initial sculpt was. If you don't have one of these, a rolling pin or similar rounded item will work, but you might want to test it out first to make sure the heated Wonderflex doesn't stick to it. on Introduction, 6 years ago Video 1: Pushing your shapes beyond reason. We love seeing and sharing your designs! First brush is saturated with regular water, then brushed over the area on your armor you want the rust to stick to. All Wedding & Party. THE AVATAR. Start designing your sled wrap with our color customizer. Making gouges in Wonderflex is quite easy, just drag a hot knife or soldering iron across the surface and melt the gouge into your part. Pushing Fantasy Armor Design. I have a duct tape mannequin I made of my torso which makes projects like this much, much easier to work on. 2 years ago :-). I found that the smoother side adheres better when heated up than the woven side, so avoid laminating two woven sides to one another if possible, as this will make a weaker bond. Begin to compare, and decipher. This must be in a player's backpack while forging 100 Magic Ingots in order to create a Magic Armor Plate. 6 years ago Heat will distort and damage those shapes you worked so hard on! on Introduction. Do not store it in a position where it is being pressed down on or where there is anything flattening the shape out. Since these parts are far too large to fit into my ice water bucket, I started by heating the entire sheet on top of a damp towel. in step 15. The overall Armor creation process goes like this:-Concept & Design -Creation in 3d program -Texturing -Skinning to a skeleton in 3d program -Nifskope -TESConstructionSet -In Game This tutorial covers the fifth step, Nifskope. Just to give you an idea of what to expect when you're spraying, initially the rust powder will make a sort of nasty yellow foam. Each of the clipped layers creates some borders—we need to use them. For other parts that aren't as wear-intensive such as the shoulder armor and thigh plates, I only used 2 laminated sheets to make the initial blank piece of material for the part. All of the raised details on my armor, with the exception of the neck guards on the shoulder armor, were sculpted from Apoxie. Pic 6 shows a contrast between darkening some of the rust with a purple wash of paint, and how it would look without any further topcoat at all. I also added raised details around the perimeter of the armor with thin strips of Wonderflex, which were heated and pressed onto the base shape. Just print your custom templates and get Armorsmithing in the medium of your choice! You might love this as is, and won't need to play around with the customizer. With parts like this, patience is key. We did cover the guide layers, but we can hide/show that upper layer whenever we want to see them. 5 out of 5 stars (38) $ 18.97. Have anytips for making a turtle shell? on Introduction, He does do commission work and might be willing to take on your project. The hot glue won't bond to the Wonderflex if you use low-temp, but it is strong enough to hold the piece during paint until you need to snap off the paint stick. Make sure to wear a respirator when doing this, since I don't think vaporized Wonderflex is good for your lungs! A quick pass with a hot knife or soldering iron will melt these back into the rest of the material and clean the edges of your armor up considerably (pics 10, 11, 12). See "heat damage" above. It's important to take into consideration the color of your plastics. Did you make this project? Have used it to mend everything from cups, and ceramics to a dent in my car :X Stuff is amazing. After heating a sheet, I would stretch it over the desired form, then submerge it into the water. Wonderflex is a low-melt thermoplastic (activation temperature of 150°-170° F) with a woven fiber backing on one side. Hardware like this makes a smooth connection on the inside of your armor so nothing sticks out like a bolt head or nut, and it also won't pinch the parts of armor screwed together and add to stress or strain (pics 4 - 7) When you say "NOTE: I got a little overzealous and did this before I had the armor strapping and rigging sorted. A quick buff with a green scotchbrite pad will get rid of this (pic 10, 11, 12). And if it does, it can cost around $500USD to achieve the level of detail inherent in most molded armor. Re: TUTORIAL - Sabine Wren chest armour paint and design templates « Reply #4 on: May 19, 2018, 01:48 AM » Wow this is amazing, … This makes a threaded insert on the armor itself, providing a convenient rigging and strapping point (pic 6) You're doing very high quality stuff. Bucks & Forms - these can be anything that resembles the shape you're eventually trying to make. TEMPLATES. These were eventually strengthened later on though, after the base shape was finished. After printing out a set of armor templates, I'd loosely tape the parts together onto the form to approximate the shape of the armor. Same goes for the straps! For this I filled a bathtub full of ice water (fun!) In the first photo, you can see how the seam line in the middle of the chest allows an outward compound curve, since the two facing edges are convex shapes. Wherever the piece isn't damp, the powder will fall away (pics 3-6). These were then covered with thin strips of Wonderflex to reinforce the seams (pic 6). 5 years ago Very thorough. What is a reasonable DIY price range for something like this? Here's a recap video of a process where I weathered a rifle from Mass Effect: In pic 3, you can see the front chest plate after shaping. This was weathered with coats of acrylic paint, mixed into various shades of green, brown, black and gray, applied liberally with a spray bottle and allowed to air dry for 48 hours. You can see this filler used in the back area along the sides, where there were still some small wrinkles from the initial shaping process (pic 9). I have a pair of trauma scissors that I find work very well with Wonderflex (they have a slight serrated edge and are meant for cutting through many layers of cloth quickly - don't ask where I got them because I have no idea!) Video 2: Studying what you gathered, and mentally prepare yourself to engage the concept. Thank you so much! Weathering, much like the initial base coat, is a multi layered process. 1. In this If you're going to have some very heavily weathered armor though, you can leave it a bit rougher.